Free estimate. Same-day service. Licensed techs.
Call now (612) 472-0664Repair, installation, restoration, maintenance. Residential and commercial. If it's a garage door, we do it.
Torsion and extension spring replacement. The top reason doors won't open.
LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie. Repair or replace any opener.
Jumped the rail or rolling rough. We realign and restore.
Snapped cables, worn rollers, bent tracks. Quality parts, fast install.
Dented or damaged section. Match and replace single panels or full doors.
Custom wood, steel, glass, insulated. We measure, supply, install.
The same standard, every job, every customer. No matter the size of the repair.
You see the full price in writing before we lift a wrench. Parts, labor, and hardware all included.
Even on a quick fix, we check springs, cables, rollers, hinges, sensors, and balance. You'll know what else is wearing out before it fails.
We use rated-cycle springs, manufacturer-spec cables, and brand-name openers. We don't stock bargain parts that fail in a year.
We show you the new part, demonstrate the repair, and answer questions before we pack up. You see what you're paying for.
Old parts hauled away. Driveway swept. No stray screws, no leftover packaging. Your garage looks the way we found it.
Labor and parts coverage spelled out on the invoice. You leave with the receipt and the warranty in the same envelope.
If your door is at the end of its life, we'll say so and give you both options. No pressure either way.
No "while we were in there" surprises. No fuel charges, no after-hours fees, no padding on the invoice.
A quick reference for what's wrong and what we do about it. If you recognize your problem below, give us a call. If you don't, call anyway. We've seen the rest.
The number one cause of a door that won't open. Most homes have either a torsion spring (mounted on a shaft above the door) or extension springs (running along the horizontal tracks on each side). Both wear out from use, not age.
Standard springs are rated for 10,000 cycles. A household opening the door four times a day uses that up in about seven years. The first sign of trouble is usually a loud bang from the garage when the spring snaps. Once a spring is broken, do not try to lift the door manually. The opener also can't handle the weight, and forcing it can damage the motor or the cables.
A door comes off its tracks for a few reasons: a snapped cable, a vehicle bumping the door, worn or broken rollers, or a misaligned drum. The door will look visibly crooked or stuck partially open.
Do not force the door open or closed. Forcing it can permanently bend the panels and turn a hundred-dollar fix into a thousand-dollar replacement. Most off-track doors can be re-set the same visit, assuming the panels aren't bent.
Garage door openers fail in stages. Sometimes it's the remote (dead battery, lost signal). Sometimes it's the safety sensors at the bottom of the tracks (knocked out of alignment, dirty lens, cut wire). Sometimes it's the logic board inside the motor unit, or the drive gear.
We start with the cheap fixes first. Often what looks like a dead opener is a five-minute sensor realignment. We only replace the full unit when it actually needs replacing.
Each door has two steel cables, one on each side, that work with the springs to lift the door evenly. When one snaps you'll see it hanging loose or dragging. The door will be unbalanced and may slam down if operated.
Do not run the door until it's fixed. Cable replacement is a same-visit job. We replace both cables when we replace one, because if one is at the end of its life the other usually is too.
Most noise comes from worn rollers, dry hinges, or a door that's out of balance. Plastic rollers usually last around five years; steel rollers ten or more. Hinges need lubrication every year or so.
A full tune-up (lube, balance, hardware tightening, roller replacement if needed) is a one-hour job and dramatically quiets the door. Often we can do it the same visit as another repair at minimal added cost.
The two small sensors at the bottom of your door tracks talk to each other with an infrared beam. If anything blocks the beam, or if they get bumped out of line, the door won't close. The opener will usually flash a light when this happens.
This is one of the most common false alarms we see. Most of the time we fix it in five minutes with a screwdriver. Don't replace your opener over a sensor issue.
Usually caused by a vehicle hitting the door or sustained impact damage. The door will jam, bind, or roll unevenly. Slightly bent tracks can sometimes be straightened with the right tools. Severely bent or twisted tracks need replacement.
We can usually tell which case yours falls into in the first minute of looking at it. If the panels are also damaged, we'll show you both options: panel replacement, or full door replacement, with prices on each.
The rubber strip at the bottom of your door and the weatherstripping along the sides wear out every five to seven years in DFW heat. When they fail, drafts get in, water seeps under during storms, and insects find a path.
Bottom seal replacement is inexpensive and immediate. We carry the most common sizes and can match almost any door. Adding insulation to the door itself is also an option if you use the garage as a workshop or storage.
A door that closes at an angle, leaves a gap on one side, or sticks at one corner is usually out of balance. The cause is typically uneven spring tension, a worn cable on one side, or a drum that's slipped on the shaft.
Balance is a safety issue, not just a cosmetic one. An unbalanced door puts extra load on the opener and shortens its life. We re-balance during any spring or cable job at no additional charge.
Start with the obvious. New 9V battery for the keypad, new coin-cell battery for the remote. Sometimes that fixes it. If not, the remote may need to be reprogrammed to the opener (a sixty-second process), or the keypad's wireless circuit may have failed.
If you've moved into a home and don't know the keypad code, we can reset it and pair new remotes the same visit.
Single dented panels can almost always be replaced individually without buying a new door. The catch: panel color and style have to match. Older doors sometimes have a panel design that's been discontinued, in which case the closest available match still won't be perfect.
We bring panel samples and color charts to your house before ordering. You see the match in your own light before you commit.
If the door starts to close, then reverses back open, the opener is hitting an obstacle (real or perceived). Usually one of three things: the safety sensors are misaligned, the close-force setting on the opener is too sensitive, or there's actual binding in the door's tracks or rollers.
We diagnose the cause in minutes by watching the door cycle and checking the opener's settings. Often it's a five-minute adjustment.
No fluff. Real work from a local crew, the same way for every customer.
We inspect, diagnose, and quote in writing. You pay nothing if you choose not to proceed.
Service call fee: $0Call before noon and we'll usually have it fixed by dinner. Trucks carry parts for most jobs.
Typical response time: Under 60 minutesSame rate every hour of every day. Weekends, holidays, and the middle of the night.
Overtime fees: $0LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Clopay, Amarr, Wayne Dalton, Overhead Door, and more.
Brands serviced: 10+Flat-rate quotes, not hourly. The price you see is the price you pay, parts and labor included.
Written quote: Before work beginsA local dispatcher answers. No robots, no hold music, no scripts. Describe the problem in your own words.
Licensed tech, fully stocked truck, written free estimate. You see the price before any work starts.
Most jobs done in one visit. Walkthrough when the work is complete, warranty paperwork in hand, clean job site.
When you call Neron, the person who answers is local. The technician who shows up lives in DFW. There's a name behind the work.
That matters when your spring snaps at 6am or your door won't close before a storm rolls in. You're not waiting on a national dispatcher to find a subcontractor in your zip code. You're talking to the people doing the work. If something goes wrong with a repair, you know exactly who to call.
We're built on word of mouth. Most of our calls come from neighbors of people we've already helped. That only works one way: by doing the job right the first time, charging what we quoted, and answering the phone when you call back six months later with a question.
If you're in or around Dallas, we're a phone call away. We dispatch from the city center outward.
Free estimate. Licensed techs. Same-day service across DFW.
(612) 472-0664 Tap to Call Now